CCTV

In the UK, the law surrounding CCTV (which includes the use of IP / Internet Cameras) is largely covered by the Data Protection Act, and the information supplied here should only be used as a guide.

Please consult http://www.ico.gov.uk/ for current rules and regulations regarding CCTV and camera systems.

Household Use

The use of CCTV cameras on residential properties is becoming increasingly common, which can be worrying if you feel that your privacy is being threatened.

There is an exemption for domestic or household processing of personal information, as long as this does not involve putting personal information on a website or making it available to the world at large in another way without good reason.

This means that if a CCTV camera mounted in your neighbour's property is overlooking your land, it is unlikely that they will be breaching the Data Protection Act. However, they may be breaching other legislation such as the law about harassment or voyeurism, and so may be subject to investigation by another body, such as the police.

The use of cameras for limited household purposes is exempt from the DPA. This applies where an individual uses CCTV to protect their home from burglary, even if the camera overlooks the street or other areas near their home. Images captured for recreational purposes, such as with a mobile phone, digital camera or camcorder, are also exempt.

The Data Protection Act does not apply to individuals’ private or household purposes. So if you install a camera on your own home to protect it from burglary, the Act will not apply.

Business Use

Most CCTV is directed at viewing and/or recording the activities of individuals. This means that most uses of CCTV by organisations or businesses will be covered by the Data Protection Act (DPA) and the provisions of this code, regardless of the size of the system.

Establishing a clear basis for the handling of any personal information is essential and the handling of images relating to individuals is no different. It is important to establish who has responsibility for the control of the images, for example, deciding what is to be recorded, how the images should be used and to whom they may be disclosed. The body which makes these decisions is called the data controller and is legally responsible for compliance with the Data Protection Act (DPA).

CCTV must not be used to record conversations between members of the public as this is highly intrusive and unlikely to be justified. You should choose a system without this facility if possible. If your system comes equipped with a sound recording facility then you should turn this off or disable it in some other way.

Storing and viewing the images 

Recorded material should be stored in a way that maintains the integrity of the image. This is to ensure that the rights of individuals recorded by the CCTV system are protected and that the material can be used as evidence in court. To do this you need to carefully choose the medium on which the images are stored, and then ensure that access is restricted. You may wish to keep a record of how the images are handled if they are likely to be used as evidence in court. Finally, once there is no reason to retain the recorded images, they should be deleted. Exactly when you decide to do this will depend on the purpose for using CCTV. 

Disclosure

Disclosure of images from the CCTV system must also be controlled and consistent with the purpose for which the system was established. For example, if the system is established to help prevent and detect crime it will be appropriate to disclose images to law enforcement agencies where a crime needs to be investigated, but it would not be appropriate to disclose images of identifiable individuals to the media for entertainment purposes or place them on the internet. Images can be released to the media for identification purposes; this should not generally be done by anyone other than a law enforcement agency. 

Retention

The DPA does not prescribe any specific minimum or maximum retention periods which apply to all systems or footage. Rather, retention should reflect the organisation’s own purposes for recording images. 

You should not keep images for longer than strictly necessary to meet your own purposes for recording them. On occasion, you may need to retain images for a longer period, where a law enforcement body is investigating a crime, to give them opportunity to view the images as part of an active investigation. 

Letting people know 

You must let people know that they are in an area where CCTV surveillance is being carried out. 

The most effective way of doing this is by using prominently placed signs at the entrance to the CCTV zone and reinforcing this with further signs inside the area. This message can also be backed up with an audio announcement, where public announcements are already used, such as in a station. 
Clear and prominent signs are particularly important where the cameras themselves are very discreet, or in locations where people might not expect to be under surveillance. As a general rule, signs should be more prominent and frequent where it would otherwise be less obvious to people that they are on CCTV. 

Subject access requests

Individuals whose images are recorded have a right to view the images of themselves and, unless they agree otherwise, to be provided with a copy of the images. This must be provided within 40 calendar days of receiving a request. You may charge a fee of up to £10 (this is the current statutory maximum set by Parliament). Those who request access must provide you with details which allow you to identify them as the subject of the images and also to locate the images on your system.

Monitoring your workforce 

When you install CCTV in a workplace, such as a shop, it is likely to capture pictures of workers, even if they are not the main subject of surveillance. If the purpose of the CCTV is solely to prevent and detect crime, then you should not use it for monitoring the amount of work done or compliance with company procedures. You should first of all consider whether better training or greater supervision would be a more appropriate solution.

Example: You suspect that your workers are stealing goods from the store room. It would be appropriate to install CCTV in this room, as it will not involve continuous or intrusive monitoring and is proportionate to the problem. 

Example: You suspect that your workers are making mobile phone calls during working hours, against company policy, and you consider installing CCTV cameras on their desks to monitor them throughout the day. This would be intrusive and disproportionate. Continuous monitoring should only be used in very exceptional circumstances, for example where hazardous substances are used and failure to follow procedures would pose a serious risk to life.

this are basic electrical diagrams

See the animation above right. The bell or gong (B), which is often in the shape of a cup or half-sphere, is struck by a spring loaded arm with a metal ball on the end called a clapper (A), actuated by an electromagnet (E). In its rest position the clapper is held away from the bell a short distance by its springy arm. When an electric current is passed through the winding of the electromagnet it creates a magnetic field that attracts the iron arm of the clapper, pulling it over to give the bell a tap. This opens a pair of electrical contacts (T) attached to the clapper arm, interrupting the current to the electromagnet. The magnetic field of the electromagnet collapses, and the clapper springs away from the bell. This closes the contacts again, allowing the current to flow to the electromagnet again, so the magnet pulls the clapper over to strike the bell again. This cycle repeats rapidly, many times per second, resulting in a continuous ringing. ^[1]
Another type, the single-stroke bell, has no interrupting contacts. The hammer strikes the gong once each time the circuit is closed.

[edit] Power sources

Electric bells are typically designed to operate on low voltages of from 10 to 24 V AC or DC. Before widespread distribution of electric power, bells were necessarily powered by batteries, either wet-cell or dry-cell type.^[1] Bells used in early telephone systems derived current by a magneto generator cranked by the subscriber. In residential applications, a small bell-ringing transformer is usually used to power the doorbell circuit. So that bell circuits can be made with low-cost wiring methods, bell signal circuits are limited in voltage and power rating.^[2]

how to install a cctv camera in a lame man language

CCTV Camera
User-Submitted Article

When finished with this article you will have a solid idea of how to install and program a digital and/or analog CCTV system for your home. I'm writing this article with a digital 8 camera system in mind, obviously you can adjust according to your specific needs. I've included a list of recommended brands/models for a mid-high range set-up.

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging
Instructions

Things You'll Need:
8 x Samsung SDC-415 - Day/Night CCTV Cameras
8 x Tamron 1/3 type, Auto-Iris, Varifocal 3.5-8mm lenses
8 x Pelco EH35 Outdoor Camera Enclosure
8 Channel Samsung SHR-2082 DVR
LCD Monitor
100 ft. RG59 Coaxial Cable
100 ft. 18-2 Power Wire
8 Camera 24 Volt AC CCTV Power Supply, 4 Amp Regulated
30 Crimp-On Male BNC Connectors
1 BNC to RCA Adapter
Wire Cutters/Strippers
BNC Crimping Tool
Macro Sized Screwdriver Set
Phillips and Flat Head Screwdrivers
Cordless Power Drill
Fish-tape
GV-LCD3 Color LCD Portable Monitor
1
Security DVR Box W/ Lock

The first step in setting up a well-designed CCTV system is to figure out where you will view your footage. You have a few options here, you could use your television as a monitor or you could set-up a totally separate LCD monitor for reviewing footage. I prefer to set-up a safe guarded, separate system for recording and viewing. You will plug your 24 Volt AC power supply in at the back-end as well, so make sure you have room for the DVR, power supply box and a LCD monitor. Now depending on your space and situation, you could mount your power supply to the wall, just make sure it's within 2-3 feet from your DVR. Once you have a safe place picked out for your back-end, you need to decided where your cameras will be mounted. When scouting for the best possible camera location keep these things in mind. Make sure to cover all entrances into your home, this includes garage doors and basement entrances. Another idea to keep in mind are possible vandals; be sure to place your cameras out of the reach of A-holes. Mark each camera location with a permanent magic marker, a small "X" will suffice.
2
Siamese Cables Could Make Your Runs Easier

Now it's time to run our 18-2 power and our RG59 coax. Only you can decide what route is best in your particular situation, for example. If you have an attic that is easily accessible, run your cable through there. If you have a basement then run your cables below the floor. The attic option is far more efficient and makes drilling holes through exterior walls much easier. When running your cable always start at the back end of the system, that way everything ends up in the same place. To begin with, pull out about 2 feet of each cable, power and coax, and tape the first 4-6 inches of each together with electrical tape. Also, label this set of cables according to the camera coverage with a permanent marker, do this for every run you make. This will help you a great deal in the future when retracing cables for maintenance issues. Run the cables to your first camera location, marked with a "X". Once you have reached your "X" it's time to drill a hole large enough for the cables to poke through the wall, use a 1/2 inch or smaller drill bit. Pull about 10-14 inches of extra cable out through your newly made hole and go back to your back end. Once your back at the spools of cable, pull another 2 feet of extra cable, making sure you can reach your power supply and DVR with the leftover length, and cut them off. Making sure to label this end of the cable is extremely important as well. Now you have your first set of cables in place and labeled. Go ahead and run the remaining seven sets of cable. ENJOY!
3
Pelco EH35 Outdoor Enclosure

Once you've finally finished running all of your cable, I know it was brutal, it's time to mount the camera enclosures. Go to each camera location and mount your enclosures accordingly. Making sure to leave enough room for left-right, up-down movement. I throughly recommend drilling pilot holes when mounting your enclosure arm, especially on hard surfaces. Once you have the enclosure mounted to an exterior wall, away from any possible vandals, feed the cables through the appropriate holes in the back of the enclosure. Continue on and mount the rest of the enclosures.
4
Back Panel of the SDC-415

Time to prep our Samsung SDC-415 cameras. Pull a camera out of the box and grab yourself a Tamron 3.5-8mm lens too. Pop the protective covers off both the camera and the lens, and screw the two together. Wrap the lens cable loosly around the lens and plug into the back of the camera. Go ahead and do the same to the other seven cameras, now your cameras are nearly prepped. Turn the camera so the back is facing you. Make sure the "Lens" switch is pushed to "video" and not "DC". Again, finish the other seven cameras and take a break. The rest of this install will require patience.
5
BNC Connector

It's time to mount the cameras in the enclosures. Take your camera/lens set-up to your first location. Slide out the camera rig and mount the bottom of the camera to the slide via the screw included in the enclosure packaging. Slide the camera back into the enclosure. Now, while your at the first camera, lets add the ends to our cables. First, peel or cut the electrical tape away from the two cables. Take your power cable and split about 4 inches of it down the middle. Now you just have to strip back each wire approximately a 1/2 an inch. Take your hot power wire and slide it into the (+) lead on the back of your camera, using a macro screwdriver to fasten it in place. Do the same for the ground wire. Once your power cable is finished, move on to the coax. This will require patience in order to get it right, and your going to need your crimp-on BNC connector and your pair of BNC crimps. Take the barrel piece of your BNC connector and slide it on to the cable, wide side at the top. Take your wire cutters and cut back about 3/4 inch of the outer casing, leaving only the center copper wire and protector. Then use your wire cutters to cut back about 1/2 an inch of the copper wire casing, leaving the bare copper wire. Snip the copper wire at an angle and slide your BNC over the exposed copper. Then it's as easy and pulling the barrel up the RG59 cable, over the end of the BNC connector and use your crimps to crimp it together. Do not connect this to the camera just yet.

*If your having a hard time making a good connection or just can't get the hang of making a BNC end, check the video link at the bottom of the post*

You know the drill, go ahead and mount the other seven cameras. Make sure to connect power and add you BNC end at each stop.
6
Samsung SHR-2082 DVR

Let's go to the back-end of the system. Take the DVR out of it's packaging and position it where it belongs in your git-up. This step is very repetitive, but absolutely necessary. It's time to add our BNC connectors to all eight coax cables. Then it's time to splice our power wire and feed it into the power supply. When your connecting your power wire, make sure to keep (+) and ground wires uniform with their corresponding camera. Obviously, make sure your power supply isn't actually plugged in. All done? Let's move on!
7
GV-LCD3 Color LCD Portable Monitor

Time to focus our cameras. Let's make sure our power is all connected both at the back-end and the camera. Go ahead and plug your power supply into the wall. Grab a left over piece of RG59, 3-6 feet will do, and throw BNC ends on both sides. This handy little cable will plug into our GV-LCD3 Color LCD Portable Monitor and then into the back of our cameras so we can focus them. So, BNC cable plugged into the top of the portable monitor and into the back of our first camera. Using the tiny thumb screws on the lens, begin to focus the camera to your liking. If it looks a little dark, go ahead and adjust the (BLC or Back Light Compensation) on the back of the camera. When focusing the camera be patient, it takes time to get it perfect. Once you have it perfect tighten the thumb screws carefully and pop the BNC cable off the back of your camera. Set your portable monitor down for a second and plug your designated BNC connector into the camera. Close and lock the enclose, making sure any excess wire is either zip ties to the frame or tucked away in the wall. One camera finished, seven more to go. Remember, this is critical in protecting your home and valuables, so really take your time and get a perfect picture.
8

So, you have eight cameras mounted, powered, focused and connected. You have 8 BNC connectors and a DVR at the back-end waiting to be attended to. Plug your BNC cables into the back of the DVR, starting at one ending at eight. Then take an extra piece of coaxial cable and throw BNC ends on it. Make sure this extra piece of cable is long enough to go from the DVR to the LCD monitor you plan on using for viewing footage. Once that cable is made, plug one end into the "out" on the DVR. The other end needs our BNC-to-RCA adapter, then plug the RCA into your LCD monitor. Plug your DVR and LCD monitor into the wall and power both of them up.
9
Finally Finished.

Your nearly finished. It's only a matter of minutes before you see what real work you've accomplished. Your DVR will probably prompt you for a few general settings like, when to record, time zone, etc. etc.. Most of the DVR's a pretty straight-forward, so this is quite easy. That's it. Make sure your LCD monitor is tuned to the proper AV channel. Voila! A total sense of accomplishment, security and safety. Well worth the cash, sweat and sheer agony of running wire you invested!

how to install electric cut out , metter, distribution board

The utility company brings wires overhead to connect to electrical service via your feeder wires. These wires come in through your service pole via the weather head. The wires connect to the top side of the meter called the line side. There are two hot wires that are generally left black in color. The third wire is the neutral wire that is generally marked with white tape.
The two connection terminals on the top of the meter on the outside is where the hot wires will connect. If you look, it is where the meter will also connect. The connection terminal in the center is where the neutral will connect. Strip the wires and insert them into the terminal. Tighten the screws until they are tight and tug on the wires to be sure that the connection is tight.

Connect the two hot wires on the bottom two terminals of the meter. These will be directly below the two hot line connections. Strip the wires and insert them into the terminal. Tighten the screws until they are tight and tug on the wires to be sure that the connection is tight.

Install a connector and a piece of pipe from the meter to the ground to protect the electric meter ground wire. Install a ground wire and connect the wire to the neutral ground terminal in the center of the meter, next to the neutral connect. In residential installations, the neutral and ground are a common connection called a neutral/ground connection. The other end of the ground wire attaches to a ground rod and is attached with a ground lug.

how to install 13 amp socket

Installing a power socket SWITCH OFF ELECTRICITY AT THE MAINS BEFORE WORKING ON EXISTING CIRCUITS To install a new socket, you will need to break into the existing ring main or more likely run a spur from an existing socket (see Adding a spur to a ring circuit from a socket) or from a junction box (see Adding a spur to a ring circuit from a junction box). Once this has been achieved and the cable is running to the position where the new socket is required a mounting box has to be fitted to hold the socket securely in position see Installing a electrical mounting box for full details of how to complete this. When the cable is in position and the mounting box is fitted you are ready to fit the socket in place. Usually one of two circumstances exist when installing a power socket either one cable is coming from the mounting box to supply the socket or there are two cables or a loop of cable.

One Cable Supply The one cable situation occurs when the socket is from a spur (see Types of electrical circuits). In this case strip and prepare the ends of the cable (see Preparing the cable for connection). Once the end of the cable is prepared place some green/yellow sleeving over the earth wire (the bare wire). The socket should have three screw terminals marked L (Live), N (Neutral) and E or (Earth). The red conductor should be fixed in the Live terminal (L), the black should be fixed in the Neutral (N) terminal and the bare wire covered with the green/yellow sleeving should be fitted into the Earth terminal (E or ) and all tightened securely. The socket is now ready to be screwed into position.

Two Cables or Loop The two wires must be prepared before connection see Preparing the cable for connection. Once prepared the conductors must be joined together - Red to Red, Black to Black and the bare wire to the bare wire. If a loop of cable is at the socket then it can be cut in half to make two cables which must then be prepared and joined as stated above. Alternatively it would be preferable to cut into the insulation without actually breaking the loop and expose the conductors which can then be folded over and twisted together see diagram (*). The socket should have three screw terminals marked L (Live), N (Neutral) and E or (Earth). The red conductor/s should be fixed in the Live terminal (L), the black should be fixed in the Neutral (N) terminal and the bare wire/s covered with the green/yellow sleeving should be fitted into the Earth terminal (E or ) and all tightened securely. The socket is now ready to be screwed into position.

Related Pages Electrics > Adding a spur to a ring circuit from a socket Electrics > Adding a spur to a ring circuit from a junction box Electrics > Installing a electrical mounting Electrics > Types of electrical circuits Electrics > Preparing the cable for connection

first is the electrical distribition board with 20 stablock and the second picture are men at workshop

all his are electricall sample; the first is amould cable ,and the last is double switch and socket

What You Should Know About Electrical Installations

By Joshua_Nicholls The basics:
New technology requires a very wide range of new electrical installations. These are very different from the old systems, particularly in communications, media systems and IT areas.
All electrical installations are regulated. Installation of electrical fittings must:

• Comply with Australian Standards
• Comply with safety best practice requirements
• Have certified safety compliant components under state certification regulations or Australian Standard compliance marks, including "Regulatory compliant", or Electrical Safety Type Test marks
• Be conducted by appropriately licensed contractors

These are the fundamental quality checks and safeguards on all electrical installations. The Australian Standards safety marks are also particularly good indicators of age of components.
Issues, problems, and hazards
Everybody's seen old or doubtful-looking electrical installations. The rule of thumb is that the worse it looks, the less likely an installation has been professionally done or serviced. These tacky-looking messes are real hazards. Electrical wiring and connections need to be done properly.
Electrical "handymen" jury rig installations, but professionals don't. It's too risky. Any installation which looks anything less than professionally connected needs work. If anything looks at all wrong or out of place, be suspicious rather than sorry.
Important: Make sure you have a good system for dealing with electrical faults and related issues.
Things to look out for:

• Smells of ozone or burnt plastic: Wiring issues.
• Scorch marks: The electrical board may have taken damage and be unsafe, even if there wasn't a fire.
• Any overheating appliance: Either the appliance is unsafe or there's a power issue.
• Odd noises or behavior in machinery: Electrical installations can be damaged by operating machinery which can create hazards by damaging wiring. The system should be taken offline instantly and checked ASAP.
• Water around electrical fittings: Very serious problem, requiring immediate service. Water can do tremendous damage very quickly near live power sources. Water damaged areas around electrical fittings should be repaired, because they're no longer water resistant.
• Anything flickering: It's normally the appliance, but if not it's the power. Again, be suspicious.

How to check out your electrical installation for quality
It's a good idea to get your electrical contractor to do a general system audit regularly. This is also good practice administratively, as well as for quality checking.
Note: Testing of electrical systems is conducted during the maintenance program, and is efficient insofar as safety checking and operational status are involved. Properly conducted maintenance will find and fix faults, but it's not an audit process.
An audit is a further stage of quality control, and can be used as a planning tool for future installation needs. You'll also find that these checks provide good information for business budgeting and forward costing of new electrical wiring installations and related plant and equipment requirements.

At Platinum Electrical, we specialise in electrical repairs, maintenance and installations accross Sydney, Melbourne and more.